5 iconic dishes you need to try in Thailand, according to a food writer living in Bangkok

From northern Chiang Mai to the shores of the Andaman Sea, these five Thai dishes have an origin story to learn from and flavors to enjoy.

Dish of the North: Laab

Northern style lab.

Illustration by Romane Mendes

When people think of laab (or larb), the salty-spicy minced meat salad, they often think of the more popular version from the Northeast, which is fiery, sharp and reminiscent of toasted rice powder. For generations, hunting the meat – traditionally wild boar or buffalo – was a rite of passage for young men eager to show off their prowess, and the dish is only served on special occasions such as weddings or funerals, says chef Phanuphon “Black” Bulsuwan from Blackitch Artisan Kitchen, in Chiang Mai. Chiang Mai-style laab “requires more attention to detail,” he says, because the meat is chopped into a finer mince and more than a dozen spices and herbs are used. He recommends the Laab Ton Koi restaurant in Chiang Mai, where the spice mix includes cinnamon and the Szechuan peppercorn-like makhwaen, or ash seed.

Dish from the South: Khao Yum

Khao yum, an aromatic Thai rice salad.

Illustration by Romane Mendes

Like many Thai dishes, there is a legend behind Khao Yum: an aromatic, herb-filled salad seasoned with nam budu, a fermented fish sauce. A Muslim ruler noted that his subjects broke their fast with meat during Ramadan, which often caused digestive problems. He asked his doctor to come up with a culinary antidote. Healing ingredients, such as moringa flowers and Indian mulberry leaves, were mixed and khao yum was born. Since then, it has become a staple in restaurants such as the Sorn with two Michelin starsin Bangkok.

Dish from Central Thailand: Massaman Curry

Massaman curry with coconut milk, peanuts and potatoes.

Illustration by Romane Mendes

This velvety coconut milk-based curry was developed in the kitchens of the Thai royal palace in the 17th century. It was originally made with almonds and raisins, and flavored with nutmeg, bay leaves and mace, according to chef Dylan Eitharong of Haawm in Bangkok. It later evolved – it now consists of coconut milk, curry paste, potatoes and peanuts – but the flavors of the spices in the paste remain. “It’s not a Thai-tasting curry,” Eitharong says of the globally popular meal, as most Thai curries rely on fresh herbs rather than dried spices. When Eitharong longs for massaman, he goes there That of Bangkok Yommana mutton shop.

Dish from the Northeast: Som Tum Pla Rah

Som tum in Laotian style.

Illustration by Romane Mendes

Everyone thinks they know som tum: the green papaya salad, flavored with lime juice, dried shrimp, peanuts and chili, that appears on Thai menus around the world. But som tum pla rah is rooted in the culture of the Isaan region, in the northeast of the country. It can be made from any sour fruit mixed with pla rah, the fermented fish sauce that is the backbone of Isan cuisine. Chef Weerawat “Num” Triyasenawat of Samuay & Sons, in the city of Udon Thani, prefers his som tum heavy on the pla rah instead of lime juice. His favorite places to get it are Som Tum Benjang and Som Tum Kin Lawe Ruai, both in Udon Thani.

Dish from the East: Khao Kluk Prik Kluea

Khao kluk prik kluea, a rice and seafood dish.

Illustration by Romane Mendes

Thailand’s often overlooked east coast is home to many of the country’s fruit farmers and fishermen. Perhaps one of the most popular dishes in the coastal city of Chanthaburi is Khao kluk prik kluea, a mix of seafood, garlic and chili peppers; Celebrity chef Mom Luang Sirichalerm Svasti, nicknamed Chef McDang, says it is an example of “Thai ingenuity.” The dish originated sometime around the turn of the century, when local fishermen, unable to cook on their boats, began pouring prik kluea, a sauce made from fish stock, chili peppers and lime juice, onto the day’s catch to cure. it and then mixed it with rice. The best place to try it? The Nampu Night Market in central Chanthaburi, says McDang.

A version of this story first appeared in the December 2024/January 2025 issue Travel + Leisure.